CRAFT
When I leave University I want to be a director. But to be a director I will need to know all the technical termonology as I will be working with professionals and to correctly get my ideas across I will need to understand the technology. This will also help me look more professional too. One of the main things I need to improve on is keeping up to date with what's currently happening in the industry and knowing the names of equipment and what they are good and not good for. To help me do this I will look at these websites most days http://petapixel.com, https://fstoppers.com, https://www.youtube.com/user/DSLRguide and http://www.iso1200.com. They lean more towards photography but have information about film and equipment on there a lot too.
Canon 5D DSLR
I have recently been trained on this camera and I would like to use
it for my film. I like the depth of focus on DSLR’s and the fact they
are small and lightweight so quite practical. This camera also has
immaculate image quality. Not only does it have good resolution
and sharpness but it has an ISO that goes down to 50 making
some of my scene like the barn scene easier to film as there will
be less noise. It also has a long battery life that will come in handy
when filming long day shoots. However it gets very hot so will have
to take care when using it for a long period of time.
Marantz Recorder
As the 5D doesn’t have a good enough sound recorder I will use a
Marantz. They are simple to use but can be unreliable, I will have to
make sure too bring lots of batteries with me as they run out fast.
Redrock Shoulder Mount
I also want to use the redrock shoulder mount. In my film a lot of the
shot are fluid slow moving shots so I feel this would be the best and
easiest way to make sure the shots are smooth and steady. This
shoulder mount is good as it is very adaptable and so can easily be
adjusted to make sure we can get the shot we need in the most
practical way.
Technical Theory
When working in the industry I will need to understand the technical termonology so I can apply them to my work and look more professional when people ask me about visions using specific termonology.
Sharpening
Sharpening makes edges appear more defined by darkening
the darker pixels and brightening the brighter pixels. This
creates a crisp edge between light and dark portions of the
image, giving it more contrast. Hopefully I shouldn't have
to sharpen the footage too much for my film but it
might look nice on some of the shots to make them a bit
more defined.
White Balance
White Balance is the concept of colour temperature. Colour
temperature is a way of measuring the quality of a light source. It
is based on the ratio of the amount of blue light to the amount of
red light, and the green light is ignored. The unit for measuring
this ratio is in degree Kelvin (K). A light with higher colour
temperature (larger Kelvin value) has more blue lights than a light
with lower colour temperature (smaller Kelvin value). Digital
cameras usually have built-in sensors to measure the current colour
temperature. Under some difficult situations when the in-camera
sensor is not able to set the colour temperature correctly we can
instruct the camera to use a particular colour temperature. This
adjustment that makes sure the white colour we view directly will
also appear white in the image which is referred to as white balance.
Rule of Thirds
Rule of Thirds is the basic principle behind the rule of thirds is to
imagine breaking an image down into thirds (both horizontally and
vertically) so that you have 9 parts.
The theory states that if you place points of interest in the
intersections or along the lines that your photo becomes more
balanced and will enable a viewer of the image to interact with it
more naturally. Studies have shown that when viewing images that
people’s eyes usually go to one of the intersection points most
naturally rather than the centre of the shot. For my film I will make
sure to use rule of thirds to let the audience know where to look to
focus them on important aspects. For example I willl use rule of
thirds to show the timid sapien in the background using the top right
focal point and the bottom left point will be the other sapiens. This
will show the timid sapien is isolated and lonely.
Aperture
Aperture is the opening in the lens. When you hit the shutter
release button of your camera a hole opens up that allows your
cameras image sensor to catch a glimpse of the scene you’re
wanting to capture. The aperture that you set impacts the size
of that hole. The larger the hole the more light that gets in – the
smaller the hole the less light, just like an eyes' pupil. Aperture
is measured in ‘f-stops’. Moving from one f-stop to the next
doubles or halves the size of the amount of opening in your lens
(and the amount of light getting through). For my film I will use
multiple different apertures but the main one I will use is f/2.8.
I will use that f number on objects and facial expersions so the
audience can focus on them more and won't be too distracted
by the background, hopefully making it more emotional.
ISO
ISO in traditional film photography was the indication of how
sensitive a film was to light. It was measured in numbers, the
lower the number the lower the sensitivity of the film and the
finer the grain in the shots you’re taking. However in digital
photography ISO measures the sensitivity of the image
sensor. The same principles apply as in film photography,
the lower the number the less sensitive your camera is to
light and the finer the grain. Higher ISO settings are generally
used in darker situations to get faster shutter speeds. But the
higher the ISO you choose the noisier shots you will get. For
my film I will use 100 ISO as this is generally accepted as
‘normal’ and will give us lovely crisp shots with little
noise/grain. However for the barn shots where it will be
darker I will adjust the aputure to allow more light in. Luckily
with the Canon 5D it has a good ISO so will be usfull when
filming in dark locations. When you choose a specific ISO
you’ll notice that it impacts the aperture and shutter speed
needed for a well exposed shot. For example – if you put
your ISO up from 100 to 400 you’ll notice that you can shoot
at higher shutter speeds and/or smaller apertures.
Shutter Speed
Shutter Speed is the length of time a camera's shutter is open
when taking a photograph. The amount of light that reaches
the image sensor is proportional to the exposure time. Shutter
speed is measured in seconds or in fractions of seconds. The
bigger the denominator the faster the speed (i.e. 1/1000 is
much faster than 1/30). For my film I will be using shutter
speeds of 1/60th of a second or faster as anything slower than
this is very difficult to use without getting camera shake and
we want it to look natural. Camera shake is when your camera
is moving while the shutter is open and results in blur in your
photos.
This image shows the difference sharpening has on a image. The first part shows how the image seems a bit soft and then the next part is too sharpened making the winkles over exaggerated. The end one is a good balance between the two.
This image shows the different effects colour temperature can have on an image.
This grid shows rule of thirds and identifies four important parts of the image that you should consider placing points of interest in. It also gives you four lines that are also useful positions for elements in your photo or film.
As you can see in this photo the two main points you're eyes are drawn to is the baby's mouth and eyes. This is a good example of a picture that uses rule of thirds.
These images show the difference in how to picture can look when changing the aperture.
In this image you can see the clear difference between the lower IOS on the left, making the image more of a clean image. In the right picture the image is very noisy and has a lot of gain.
This is an example of the differences of a slow and fast shutter speed. In the first image you can clearly see the water droplets but in the second the water is more of a blur. You can see splashes very easily with a high shutter speed because it captures just an instant of where the water is as the shutter opens. But the longer the shutter speed is open the more reflected light enters the camera, so the film is basically seeing the water move. The longer the shutter, the smoother something can look creating an almost dreamlike effect with water.
References
White Balance: Photoshop fixes and in-camera solutions for any situation | Digital Camera World. 2015. White Balance: Photoshop fixes and in-camera solutions for any situation | Digital Camera World. [ONLINE] Available at: http://www.digitalcameraworld.com/2013/09/12/white-balance-photoshop-fixes-and-in-camera-solutions-for-any-situation/. [Accessed 25 October 2015].
Rule of Thirds - Digital Photography School. 2015. Rule of Thirds - Digital Photography School. [ONLINE] Available at: http://digital-photography-school.com/rule-of-thirds/. [Accessed 25 October 2015].
Introduction to Aperture - Digital Photography School. 2015. Introduction to Aperture - Digital Photography School. [ONLINE] Available at: http://digital-photography-school.com/aperture/. [Accessed 25 October 2015].
ISO Settings in Digital Photography. 2015. ISO Settings in Digital Photography. [ONLINE] Available at: http://digital-photography-school.com/iso-settings/. [Accessed 25 October 2015].
Introduction to Shutter Speed - Digital Photography School. 2015. Introduction to Shutter Speed - Digital Photography School. [ONLINE] Available at: http://digital-photography-school.com/shutter-speed/. [Accessed 25 October 2015].
Shutter speed - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia. 2015. Shutter speed - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia. [ONLINE] Available at: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shutter_speed. [Accessed 25 October 2015].
Karl Taylor- Photographer
Karl Taylor has been a professional photographer for over 20 years and
has travelled the globe on assignments for some of the world’s most
successful companies. He started his career in photojournalism but from
taking up new challenges he now does photography for advertising and
has his own workshops to teach people his love for photography. He does
all the lighting, camera work, set design and editing for his photos. He is
also a professional in high-end retouching services using Photoshop.
Now an expert in the industry, Karl began lecturing on photography and
teaching other photographers the techniques of the “digital photography era”.
In 2009 Karl was short-listed for a Hasselblad Masters Award, now Karl
continues to share his passion and knowledge for photography through his
series of DVDs, courses and workshops. Testament to his intrinsic knowledge
and knack for explaining complex subjects Karl also works as a consultant
instructor to Hasselblad and Broncolor, two of the industries most respected
brands and is also a recognised Adobe Community Professional. Not letting
go of his passion for shooting great images, Karl continues to shoot regularly
for some of the world’s leading businesses and advertising agencies.
I have always wanted to know how to colour grade as it makes such a big difference to the final product. To find out how to colour grade properly, I contacted Karl Taylor. He was very kind and allowed me to spend three days working for him and his video editor. He taught me about colour scales and which editing tools to uses when colour
grading. The main tool to use is RGB Curves where you can adjust the red, blue
and green tones and also brighten and contrast. In the short time I spent there I
learnt a lot and now feel more confident to colour grade.
Here is a link to his portfolio to find out more-